Twenty years ago, Tom Fort drove his little red car onto the ferry at Felixstowe, bound for all points east. Eastern Europe was still a faraway place, just emerging from its half-century of waking nightmare, blinking, injured, full of fears but importantly full of hope, as well. Things were different then. Czechoslovakia was still Czechoslovakia, Russia was the USSR, and the Warsaw Pact had not formally dissolved. But what did exist then, as they do now, were the rivers: the nations' lifeblood. It was along and by these rivers that Fort traveled around Eastern Europe meeting its people and immersing himself in its culture. Since that trip, much has changed. In more recent years around one million Poles have settled in Britain. Fort's local paper has a Polish edition, his supermarket has a full range of Polish bread, sausage, and beer, and an influx of Polish businesses opened in his town center. And it's not just the Poles, his gym has a Lithuanian trainer and the woman who cuts his...

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