Effortlessly cool yet uncommonly welcoming, Madrid has many faces. Lazy cafe mornings spill over into unhurried lunchtime feasts, while shady park naps reinvigorate you for intoxicating flamenco and late hot nights. Bringing out the unique character of each barrio, from gritty backstreets to exquisite art galleries, this guide will help you weave your way through the plazas, palaces and 3am traffic jams like a true Madrileno.

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