China is a country in transition, a country of contradictions and a country worthy of being discovered without bringing in preconceptions, because China is the country with the immortal smile and it's all up to you what you find behind the beaming lips. Rowin Mulder is not your typical tourist, but a traveller bent on discovering new horizons, on exploring the 'real' China, the hidden China, the China behind the smile. The road less travelled is a difficult one and full of unexpected hazards, twists and turns, but unfazed, our keen explorer plunges headlong into the muddle of smells, colours and textures that make up the China of today. Here are sketches from his experiences there - from the everyday life in the hutongs of Shanghai, to getting lost in the remotest of villages - and highly rewarding they are. Yak on the menu? If dog and donkey meat are to your taste, there's plenty to tickle your taste buds here too! Whether or not travelling rough is your cup of tea, here's a...

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